Veneto
Verona is the city people book for the wrong reason and come back for the right one. Read more
The only major Italian square that is still standing exactly where the Roman forum was, and still doing roughly the same job.
A two-thousand-year-old building that never stopped doing its job — and the only Roman amphitheatre where you can buy a ticket for tonight's performance.
Free, always open, and the one place where a medieval tyrant's paranoia is still a legible piece of civil engineering.
A Roman bridge rebuilt from its own stones after being blown up in 1945 — and the best free view in Verona from the middle of it.
The quietest important square in Verona, and the one place where the Scaligeri regime is still legible in stone.
The best free hour in Verona is a slow lap of the Listone at dusk with the Arena lit at the end of it.
The most important Romanesque building in northern Italy, twenty minutes from the crowds — and the bronze doors alone repay the walk.
The definitive view of Verona, free, at any hour — and the ten-minute climb costs nothing at all.
The single best orientation you can buy in Verona: ten minutes up here and the city's Roman-under-medieval layout finally makes sense.
Two intact churches, six centuries apart, one on top of the other — and a fraction of the queue at Sant'Anastasia five minutes north.
Pisanello's St George is the finest painting in Verona, and the two worn hunchbacks under the holy water are the thing you will actually remember.
Even if you skip every painting, Scarpa's cantilevered mounting of the Cangrande statue is worth the ticket on its own.
A Roman theatre you can walk around in, an archaeological museum inside a Renaissance convent above it, and a terrace view of Verona that most visitors never see.
A near-intact sixteenth-century Italian garden with a maze, a grotto and a belvedere — and usually almost nobody in it.
One of Italy's great cellars, and the front bar lets you drink from it by the glass without sitting down to a full meal.
The cured meat and cheese counters are the best in the city, and the room is where Verona eats rather than where Verona sends visitors.
Proper Veronese osteria food at €20–30 a head, eaten under the last medieval portico street in the city.
Seventy-plus cicchetti and three hundred wines in a room that has been doing this since 1909 — the best-value serious drinking in the centre.
