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Bangkok

Yaowarat (Chinatown)

A kilometre of gold shops, herbal-medicine counters and Chinese-character neon that turns into Bangkok's densest street-food corridor after dark. Low shophouses, wholesale lanes barely wide enough for two people, and — on the side streets of Soi Nana, Song Wat and Talat Noi — the city's most interesting bar and restaurant scene occupying buildings a century older than the drinks in them.

Who it's for: Eaters, first and foremost — this is where you spend your evenings, not your mornings. Anyone interested in the Thai-Chinese half of Bangkok's story. Cocktail drinkers (Soi Nana is a genuine world-class bar street). Photographers, for the neon. Travellers who want Michelin-listed food at street prices.

Things to know

  • Chinatown is an evening district. Most street vendors set up from around 5–6pm and many take Mondays off; arriving at 2pm gets you heat, traffic and closed shutters.
  • Cash, in small notes. Street stalls almost universally take cash only and will not break a 1,000 THB note.
  • MRT Wat Mangkon (opened 2019) puts you in the middle of the district and MRT Hua Lamphong at the eastern end near Soi Nana. Taking a taxi into Yaowarat in the evening is a mistake — the traffic does not move.
  • The pavements are obstructed, uneven and sometimes nonexistent. Wear closed shoes you don't mind ruining, and expect to walk in the road.
  • Chinese New Year (January or February) and the nine-day Vegetarian Festival (September or October) transform the district and make it close to impassable. Both are worth seeing if you accept the crowds.
  • Vegetarians should time a visit to the Vegetarian Festival, when the whole district goes meat-free. Outside it, the street-food layer is almost entirely pork and seafood.
  • The famous seafood restaurants at the Phadung Dao corner are the touristed part of Yaowarat. They are fine; the better eating is at the noodle shophouses one street back.
  • Temple dress rules apply at Wat Traimit and Wat Mangkon — shoulders and knees covered, shoes off inside halls.