Jung-gu, the working middle of Seoul. Myeongdong is a dense grid of cosmetics shops and evening food carts under a Gothic cathedral; Namdaemun behind it is a 17,000-stall wholesale market that trades through the night. East of them Euljiro is a printing-and-hardware district of tile shops and metal workshops that empties of workers at six and refills with drinkers — the 'Hipjiro' thing — while Namsan and its tower sit directly above the whole lot.
Who it's for: Anyone who wants Seoul at street level rather than behind a palace wall. Eaters on a budget: this district holds more Michelin Bib Gourmand institutions per square kilometre than anywhere else in the city, most of them serving one dish they have made since the 1930s–60s. Night walkers. People who like industrial neighborhoods and the bars that grow in them.