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서울 (Seoul)

Myeongdong & Euljiro

Jung-gu, the working middle of Seoul. Myeongdong is a dense grid of cosmetics shops and evening food carts under a Gothic cathedral; Namdaemun behind it is a 17,000-stall wholesale market that trades through the night. East of them Euljiro is a printing-and-hardware district of tile shops and metal workshops that empties of workers at six and refills with drinkers — the 'Hipjiro' thing — while Namsan and its tower sit directly above the whole lot.

Who it's for: Anyone who wants Seoul at street level rather than behind a palace wall. Eaters on a budget: this district holds more Michelin Bib Gourmand institutions per square kilometre than anywhere else in the city, most of them serving one dish they have made since the 1930s–60s. Night walkers. People who like industrial neighborhoods and the bars that grow in them.

Things to know

  • The integrated palace ticket is ₩6,000, not ₩10,000. It covers Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung (palace only, NOT the Secret Garden), Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung and Jongmyo, one entry each, valid six months from purchase. Buying the five separately costs ₩9,000, so it pays off from three sites. Palace admission has been frozen since 2005 and a revised fee structure is slated for 2027.
  • Namdaemun Market is closed on Sundays, and so are several of the district's best restaurants (Hadongkwan, Pildong Myeonok, Mugyodong Bugeo Gukjip all shut Sunday). Sunday in Jung-gu is a genuinely worse day to eat here — plan it for Myeongdong's carts or Euljiro instead.
  • Deoksugung closes Mondays; so do DDP, Namsangol Hanok Village, SeMA and Sungnyemun. Monday is the day to do Myeongdong, Namdaemun and Namsan.
  • The Deoksugung changing-of-the-guard happens three times a day — 11:00, 14:00 and 15:30, in front of Daehanmun — is free to watch from the street, and is cancelled on Mondays and in extreme heat or cold.
  • Several of the great old restaurants here run out and close, rather than closing at a set hour. Hadongkwan lists 07:00–16:00 but stops when the gomtang vats are empty, often well before. Go early.
  • The Namsan cable car is ₩15,000 return and does not include the N Seoul Tower observatory, which is a further ₩29,000. The view from the free public terrace at the tower's base is the same view; the observatory buys you height and glass. Walking up from Namsangol or the Myeongdong side takes 30–40 minutes and is free.
  • Google Maps walking and transit directions do not work properly anywhere in Korea. Use Naver Map or KakaoMap; both are free, both have English, and both give subway exit numbers, which matters enormously in a district where exits are hundreds of metres apart.
  • Subway base fare is ₩1,550 as of June 2025. Seoul's official tourism pages still publish the old ₩1,400 figure in places — do not trust posted prices on tourism sites without a second check.
  • Euljiro's bars are mostly on upper floors and in courtyards behind unmarked doors, which is not affectation — the ground floors are still workshops paying commercial rent. Expect to look for an intercom or a stairwell.