Dublin

Docklands, Smithfield & Glasnevin

Three unconnected pockets that share one job on this itinerary: everything that doesn't fit neatly inside the old city walls. Glass-and-steel Docklands along the Liffey, where tech-company canteens sit beside a famine-ship replica and a Calatrava bridge; cobbled, gentrifying Smithfield north of the river, where a horse-fair square now has a whiskey distillery on one side and a trad-music pub that survived a hotel developer on the other; and leafy Glasnevin two kilometres further out, home to Ireland's most important cemetery and its finest botanic gardens.

Who it's for: History-minded visitors who want the emigration story and the independence-era story in the same day — EPIC's digital galleries and Glasnevin's guided cemetery tour cover ground the city-centre museums don't. Whiskey drinkers doing a distillery double bill (Jameson here, Roe & Co / Teeling in the Liberties). Anyone curious about contemporary Dublin — the glass towers of the docks are the clearest sign of the Celtic Tiger and "Silicon Docks" tech boom. Traditional-music purists who want the real session, not a tourist-bar version of one.

Things to know

  • This is not a walkable single district — budget Luas/bus/taxi time between Docklands, Smithfield and Glasnevin rather than planning to walk it in one loop.
  • Docklands and Smithfield are both Luas-served (Red and Red lines respectively via connecting stops); Glasnevin is reached by Dublin Bus (routes 4, 9, 40, 83, 140) from O'Connell Street, not the Luas.
  • EPIC and Glasnevin Cemetery Museum are both on the anchor-sights list — book EPIC's timed entry online in summer, and book the Glasnevin guided tour rather than relying on walk-up.
  • Smithfield's horse fair is now down to twice a year (first Sunday of March and September) — don't expect it on a random visit.